A Peshawari chappal is made by hand in six stages: the leather is cut to pattern, the straps and upper are stitched, a rubber sole is cut from tyre rubber, the upper is stitched onto the sole, the heel strap and buckle are fitted, and the pair is trimmed and polished. In Charsadda, one of the main centres of the craft, this work is spread across hundreds of small workshops and home workers.
How a Peshawari chappal is made, step by step
| Stage | What happens |
|---|---|
| 1. Pattern and cutting | The upper pieces and straps are marked on the hide and cut by hand |
| 2. Upper | Straps are shaped, edged and stitched into the design, such as Kaptaan, Zalmi or Panjedar |
| 3. Sole | Tyre rubber is cut to the foot shape, with an inner sole or cushioned footbed on top |
| 4. Assembly | The upper is stitched through to the sole around the edge |
| 5. Heel strap | The back strap is attached and a buckle fitted so the fit can be adjusted |
| 6. Finishing | Edges are trimmed, loose threads cleaned and the leather polished |
1. Choosing and cutting the leather
The maker starts with the hide. Cow leather is the most common choice because it is strong enough for stitching and softens with wear. The pattern for each piece is marked on the leather and cut by hand. According to Dawn, most of the leather used in Charsadda comes from Khyber Pakhtunkhwa and Afghanistan, and is tanned in Punjab.
2. Stitching the upper
The cut pieces are shaped into the design. This is where types differ: two wide crossing straps for a classic chappal, a broad rounded front for a Kaptaan, two broad panels for a Zalmi or five straps for a Panjedar. The edges are finished and the pieces stitched together. See our guide to Peshawari chappal types for how each design looks.
3. Making the sole
Most Peshawari chappals sit on a sole cut from tyre rubber, which grips well and lasts. It is cut to the shape of the foot for each size, and an inner sole or cushioned footbed is added on top. Some newer designs use a thin, flexible zero sole or a thick Vibram sole instead.
4. Joining the upper to the sole
The upper is stitched through to the sole around the edge. Even, tight stitching here is what separates a handmade pair from a copy with glued straps. In Charsadda, Dawn reports that many women do sole sewing from home, as part of a workforce of about 8,000 people across some 800 small units.
5. Fitting the heel strap
The back strap is attached and a metal buckle fitted, so the wearer can set how closely the chappal holds the heel. On a Kaptaan, the back is left open apart from this strap.
6. Finishing and polishing
Finally the edges are trimmed, loose threads cleaned up and the leather polished to a glossy, matte or burnished finish.
Why handmade chappals cost more
Every stage above is done by hand, and the leather and tyre rubber are real materials with a real cost. That is why a handmade pair costs more than a moulded synthetic copy, and why it can be resoled and worn for years. Dawn reported in 2024 that Charsadda chappals sold for about Rs 1,000 to Rs 1,500 in local markets and Rs 3,000 to Rs 5,000 in other cities, and that they are popular in Gulf countries such as Saudi Arabia and the UAE.
Where our chappals are made
Khyber Wear chappals are hand stitched in genuine cow leather in Charsadda, where our workshop is at Office 1, Lali Plaza, Mardan Road. Our Norozi chappals are made in Quetta. To tell a handmade pair from a copy, see how to spot a fake Peshawari chappal, and for the story of the craft, read our history of the Peshawari chappal. Browse the Charsadda chappal collection.
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